It may seem as though a country pub complete with abundant hanging baskets has been plopped on to busy Highgate Road, but inside lies an edgy kitchen working sustainable practices into culinary magic- this is Bull and Last.

They cure their own meats and fish, churn a dazzling range of ices – even the oatcakes on the cheeseboard are made on site. This makes the Bull and Last special enough for a treat meal, though the rustic decor and modest dimensions are most suited to escapist weekday lunches. Service is usually very charming, but the slowness with which dishes arrive from the kitchen remains an aggravation

Characterful staples from summer menus in Bull and Last include hearty English pea salad with pea fritters, goat’s curd and Jersey Royals, and brown crab spaghettini with chilli and spring onion. For those not wanting the likes of slow-cooked beef cheek with spätzle, chard, ox tongue and prune, there are simple burgers, steaks and beer-battered fish, all with the superb triple-cooked chips.

Desserts increasingly showcase the Bull and Last kitchen’s inspired ice-cream flavours (lavender, black cherry and amaretti among them) and there’s a stonking choice of English and French cheeses. A brief, punchy international wine list starts at £16 a bottle, while a pleasing choice of hand-pumped ales changes frequently and is strong on London breweries.

 
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