If you come in with high expectations of the Harwood Arms (it’s part owned by Brett Graham from the Ledbury), you won’t be disappointed. Set in what was an old corner pub, in residential Fulham, it’s now firmly at the restaurant end of the gastropub spectrum, though there are stools for perching at the bar to enjoy a pint of Young’s London Gold or a house bloody mary (with own-made tomato juice and thyme and chilli vodka). The stripped-down country-chic decor is easy on the eye, and the atmosphere laid-back, though the informally dressed young staff are alert.

The artfully arranged food takes things to a different level. Game is a speciality. Roe deer and walnut terrine with spiced chutney, chicory and caramelised onion bread, packs as much of a gamey punch as expected. In contrast, warm ‘salad’ of wood pigeon with creamed livers, bitter leaves and turnips was a full-flavoured delight. Next, cheek and jowl of Middlewhite pork with celeriac and white cabbage was Sunday lunch perfection – served as a thin sliver.

Fish is also handled with aplomb: witness roast plaice on the bone with potted shrimp butter, smoked mash and cooked baby gem lettuce. We can heartily recommend a side order of crispy garlic potatoes; a bar snack of venison rissoles is also a must. Poached peach with lemon thyme, raspberry sorbet and salted almonds is typical of the classy puddings. Lucky old Fulham for having Harwood Arms on its side indeed

 
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